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Sega Daytona USA 2 Battle on the Edge

This is a very early draft of the Daytona 2 section...

Daytona USA 2 Battle on the Edge Videos

What to see a couple of videos from Daytona USA 2 BOTE?  Click here to see Daytona USA 2 Videos.

Taking it Apart

Daytona is a big and heavy game.  The manual states it is about 560 pounds.  I wanted to get this game into my basement, which requires navigating a 90 degree turn, a 29" doorway and a set of stairs.  It was possible!  It required a lot of work.  Here is what I did

  1. Removed side art

  2. Removed topper

  3. Removed coin door

  4. Removed chair

  5. Removed control panel (steering wheel, etc.)

  6. Removed monitor cabinet from base

  7. Removed monitor from monitor cabinet

Removing the side art was easily.  There are 6 or so screws that hold each in place.

The topper was also pretty easy to remove, but a lot heavier than the side art.  The topper is attached by 3 screws in the back and 2 bolts in the front.

After removing the side art and the topper, I opened up the back of the machine and labeled every connector.  I've learned from my pinball work that using a sharpie and writing a unique number of each connector makes the reassembly part painless. 

Below are some pictures of the control panel. 

While my goal was to get this game into the basement and not to shop it, I did notice the fan on the back of the control panel was nasty.  I cleared it.  Before and after pictures are below.

The chair is easy to remove from the base.  It is attached to a hinge using 4 bolts. Here is a picture of the chair disconnected from the base.

Taking the monitor cabinet off the base required removing 6 bolts.  There are three on the left of the monitor cabinet and three on the right of the monitor cabinet.  Luckily, when these bolts were removed, the monitor cabinet immediately want to slide off the base.  With help from another person, we moved the monitor cabinet off the base and onto a pair of strong saw horses.  Below is a picture of the base with the chair and monitor cabinet removed.

The monitor cabinet is still very heavy and couldn't be moved to my basement while the monitor was still inside.  The monitor itself makes up a good portion of the monitor cabinet's weight.  I removed the monitor.  While removing the monitor itself was surprisingly easy, you also need to remove the metal frame that supports the smoked glass as well as the speaker grills.  I found this to be a real pain.  Several of the screws are behind the metal frame and cannot easily be reached.  I ended up purchasing one of those flexible drill extenders. 

One note about removing the monitor.  There are two sets of four bolts.  The inner set allows you to remove the monitor from the frame.  You don't want to do this.  You want to remove the outer set.  This allows you to pull the monitor and the frame out.  Just make sure you disconnected the couple of cables that connect to the monitor.

Below is a picture of the monitor as well as the annoying metal frame that supports the glass.  You can see that the speaker grill on the right has been removed.

Below is a picture of the monitor cabinet after the monitor has been removed.

And below are a couple of pictures of the monitor with its frame.

All these parts were carried down to the basement individually.  As you might have noticed, some of the pictures used above were taken after the parts had already been moved to the basement. 

Now let's start putting it back together.  We start with the base (no monitor cabinet, no seat).

I attached the empty monitor cabinet to the base.

Then I attached the topper to the empty monitor cabinet.

The next step was to put the monitor back into the monitor cabinet.

I then added the frame that supports the smoked glass as well as the speaker grills. 

I put the control panel back on.  One note about these.  There are two pieces that are shaped like triangles with curved edges.  These go on the top left and top right of the control panel.  They don't directly attach to the control panel, rather they attach to the monitor cabinet.  I found it much easier to attach these two triangle-like pieces after installing the control panel.  Below is a picture of the installed control panel.

Following the control panel, I reattached the chair.

And now... All assembled!

 

Leg Levelers

I had a difficult time finding the appropriate size leg levelers for Sega's Daytona USA 2.  It seems most people have not needed to worry about replacing them and don't know the size.  That's pretty reasonable given they are difficult to remove.

I did find references indicating that the correct leg level was 1/2"-13 and 3" tall.  This, however, could not be right (or so I thought). A 3" tall leg leveler wouldn't cause my Daytona cabinet to be raised off the ground since the wheels themselves are taller.  I ended up purchasing 1/2"-13 5" tall leg levelers instead and they worked great..  See the image below. 

I did figure out why most people think Daytona 2 uses 1/2"-13 3" tall levelers.  Because it is correct!  The reason I had such a hard time figuring out the correct leg leveler size is that someone put larger than expected casters on my Daytona!  I only figured this out when a fellow Daytona 2 owner told me my Daytona looked like it was on lifts.  :)

It's pretty difficult to install the leg levelers, since the machine is very heave.  I used a small jack to lift up the machine.

I was able to locate a used set of the correct Daytona casters.  The image below shows the caster that came with my Daytona (left) as well as the correct caster (right).  Big difference!  Also, all four correct casters have swivel bases while only two of my "incorrect" casters supported swiveling.

Replacing the casters on Daytona 2 is very easy.  There are four small bolts that hold the caster's base to the cabinet bottom.  Since the leg levelers were adjusted to raise the casters slightly off the ground (when I had the original casters that were too tall), I was able to replace the casters without needing a jack.  I'm also happy to report that the leg levelers I got (the 5" tall ones) work just fine.  There is enough space in the cabinet that the extra length can be screwed in so it behaves like the 3 1/2" ones.

Any comments?

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